Zucchini, Zucchini, Zucchini

Boys with Sweet Potato Zucchini Bread and Zucchini Fritters

Zucchini When Will it Stop
I just returned home to Utah after two weeks in the Gorge.  Glorious days of warm winds (sometimes gale force) and cool evenings.  My days were filled with picking the last of the Bing and Lapin cherries from my neighbours orchard and actually harvesting a few from our own.  These last cherries I put to good use and have put up 18 jars of cherry jam and a few jars of home dried cherries.  Dickeys’ although not able to supply me with my usual order of small Kirby’s (didn’t order by April 1st) did have some good medium sized pickling cucmbers and so I was able to make a few large jars of hot dills.  I followed Rosemary’s advice and inserted into each jar a grape leaf, pick from our grapes and trimmed the blossom end of the cucke.  This helps to keep the cukes crisp and it really does work.  Along with the Hot Dills I also put up a handful of bread and butter pickles but failed to follow my own advice and forgot to add the grape leaf, oh well.  Lastly, although the deer ate the raspberries down to about deer knee level I was able to make a dozen jars of freezer raspberry jam and those will be welcome for Brig’s peanut butter and jam sandwiches for school.  Reidar only eats peanut butter sandwiches and Soren only has jam on his.  So I guess together the make up a PB and J.  

Anyway, touching on the title of this article I have come home to an absolute bumper crop of zucchini, I planted 6 starts and we were eating Fried Zucchini Blossoms before we left for the Gorge and tonight we will dine on Ricotta Stuffed Zucchini.  The first of my cherry tomatoes are ripening so it will be a perfect summer dinner.  Maybe Soren will even try some, he actually ate the crab my sister-in-law Robin brought down that they had caught near their house in Everett, WA.  So for all the rest of you in the same boat either due to your garden or to an over-indulgence at the farmers market here goes.  

Sweet Potato and Zucchini Bread

As per usual for all of these types of sweet breads I found I could cut the oil significantly and also the sugar and bread bread is plenty moist and plenty sweet.  You can use your baseball sized zucchini and just scoop out the mushy flesh in the middle (feed it to the chickens they love it) and grate the rest. The boys like to add chocolate chips to this recipe for a fun twist, 1/2 C does the job.

• 2 cups all purpose flour
• 2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
• 1 teaspoon baking soda
• 1/4 teaspoon baking powder
• 1/4 teaspoon salt
• 1 cups sugar
• 1/2 cup vegetable oil
• 3 large eggs
• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
• 2 cups grated zucchini
• 1 1/2 cups grated peeled sweet potato
• 1 cup toasted, chopped pecans (optional)

Preheat oven to 350°F. Butter and flour 9x5x3-inch loaf pan. Sift first 5 ingredients into medium bowl. Beat sugar, oil, eggs and vanilla to blend in large bowl. Mix in zucchini and sweet potato. Add dry ingredients and walnuts and stir well.
Transfer batter to prepared pan. Bake until tester inserted into center comes out clean, about 1 hour 20 minutes. Cool bread in pan on rack 15 minutes. Cut around bread to loosen. Turn out onto rack and cool completely. (Can be prepared 1 day ahead. Wrap in foil and let stand at room temperature.)

These breads freeze beautifully if wrapped in plastic wrap then tin foil and finally into a ziploc bag.
Zucchini Blossoms  

When picking zucchini flowers from your (or someone else’s) garden, be sure you select male flowers. In the following picture, the female flower is on top, the male below.
The males grow straight up on thin green stems. The females tend to grow lower to the ground often the stems are over 4 inches long. You only need one male per plant to keep the females happy (nature is consistent after all). The rest you can pick off and eat. Pick the males when they are young and stiff, and not floppy and mature: it is easier to stuff and fry a stiff petaled flower, although you can fry open flowers, too. I picked the baby zucchini with the flower still attached and fried them, they were delicious!!  The flowers pictured above are slightly mature, but totally fine. Avoid flowers that are bruised and showing other signs of age. Check the inside for bees (I didn’t do this today and now have a comatose wasp in the bag of zucchini flowers I have in the fridge) and other bugs and shake them out. Don’t wash zucchini flowers as they may disintegrate.

Fried Zucchini Flowers, adapted from Eugenia Bone
A really delicate flavour and better served with nothing other than a little lemon juice but the boys really like to dip so I often make an aioli to serve alongside. Makes 15 flowers.

• 15 zucchini flowers
• 1 cup flour
• 1 cup cheap canned beer
• 1 1/2 teaspoon baking powder
• Canola oil
• Salt to taste

Combine the flour, beer, baking powder, and a pinch of salt in a bowl and refrigerate it for 1 hour (a little more or less is okay). The batter should be about the consistency of loose yogurt.Place 1/2 of an inch of vegetable oil (not olive oil) in a large non-stick skillet. Heat the oil over a high heat. The oil must be very hot. You can test it by throwing a dash of flour into the oil. If the flour pops, the oil is ready for frying.

Other Ideas

I have also stuffed the zucchini blossoms(any squash blossom will do) with a combination of 1 cup goat cheese, 1 egg, 2 scallions(thinly sliced) and nutmeg.  Using a small Ziploc bag with the corner trimmed off to make a piping bag, pipe about 2 teaspoon of filling into blossom.  You can either batter these or fry them as is.  These can be served with the Golden Tomato Oil if fried without a batter.

Zucchini Flower Sauce, Adapted from Eugenia Bone
I have found that the absence of saffron does not materially alter this recipe, saffron while wonderful is expensive and difficult to come by in your local supermarket.  It can sometimes take a couple of days to harvest enough zucchini blossoms, just place the harvested ones in a Ziploc bag and refrigerate until you have one pound of blossoms.  Freeze the sauce in small plastic containers and allow to defrost in the refrigerator. Makes 4 cups

• 1 lb zucchini flowers
• 3 tablespoons olive oil
• 1 medium onion, finely chopped (about 1 cup)
• 4 cups chicken stock (homemade or all natural low sodium)
• 1/2 teaspoon saffron, soaked in a tablespoon of warm water for a few minutes

Finely chop the zucchini flowers. Heat the oil in a large skillet over a medium heat. Add the onion and sauté until it is translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the chopped zucchini flowers and sauté over a medium low heat for about 5 minutes, until the flowers are soft. You will smell their delicate perfume.

Heat the stock to a simmer over a low heat. Add the saffron with its tablespoon of water. Pour the saffron flavored stock over the flowers and simmer gently over a low heat for about 15 to 20 minutes, until the stock reduces by about a quarter. Add salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste.  

Zucchini Flower Risotto, adapted from Eugenia Bone
I make this in my heavy bottomed enamelled pot, purchased by Max from Walmart and it is a great risotto pot.  You can add more reggiano if you like your risotto cheesy. Serves 4 as a first course

• 1 tablespoon olive oil
• 1 large shallot, minced (about 2 tablespoons)
• 1 cup Arborio rice
• 1/2 cup white wine
• 4 cups chicken stock, warmed
• 1 cup zucchini flower sauce
• 1/3 cup grated Parmesan reggiano cheese
• 1 teaspoon lemon zest
• 2 tablespoons minced fresh flat-leafed parsley
• Salt and Pepper to taste
  
  

Heat the oil in a medium sized, heavy bottomed pot over a medium heat. Add the shallots and cook for about 1 minute, until they become soft and fragrant. Add the rice and stir to coat with the oil and shallots, about 1 minute. The rice will take on a translucent quality. Add the wine—it will boil up, then settle down–and cook until the wine is absorbed, about 2 minutes. Add 1 cup of warm stock, stir and cook until the rice absorbs most of the stock, about 5 minutes. You don’t have to sit over risotto stirring and stirring unless the rice is over a year old.
Keep adding the stock 1 cup at a time, allowing the rice to absorb most of the stock before adding more, stirring periodically. Do not allow the risotto and stock to boil: it is best to keep the heat at medium low and the risotto simmering gently. Do be sure the rice is always wet. If so, your risotto won’t stick. If it does stick it is because the rice is cooking in too little liquid.
In the meantime, warm the zucchini flower sauce in a small pan over a medium low heat.
When the rice is almost al dente, add the zucchini flower sauce. Stir in the sauce, and continue cooking for about 3 minutes. In my opinion all risotto is best when it is loose. If you jiggle the pot, the risotto should undulate.
Take the risotto off the heat. Adjust the seasoning. Stir in the Parmesan cheese and lemon zest. Garnish with parsley and freshly ground black pepper.
The longer the risotto rests, the firmer it will become. Resting will not affect the flavor—but it will affect the texture, so for best results, serve immediately.
Zucchini Flower Frittata, Serves 4

• 12 large zucchini flowers
• 1 1/2 cups flour
• 2 cups white wine
• 2 teaspoons baking powder
• Salt to taste
• 3 tablespoons olive oil
• 1 medium onion, thinly sliced (about 1 cup)
• 6 zucchini flowers, chopped
• 10 eggs
• 1/4 cup milk
• 1 tablespoon flat-leafed parsley, finely chopped
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
• Vegetable oil for frying
• 1/2 cup ricotta salata, grated on the wide holes of the grater

Preheat the oven to 300F.
Check the insides of the zucchini flowers for insects and shake them out. Brush dirt off the flowers, but do not wash them or the flowers won’t be crisp when you fry them.
Combine the flour, wine, baking powder, and a pinch of salt in a bowl and refrigerate for 1 hour (a little more or less is okay). Heat the oil in a medium sized skillet over a medium heat.  Add the onions and chopped zucchini flowers and cook until the onions are translucent, about 5 minutes, Remove the onions and zucchini flowers and add them to a mixing bowl. Add the parsley, eggs, milk, parsley, salt and pepper and mix well.
Place 3/4 of an inch of vegetable oil in a large non-stick skillet with the rosemary. Heat the oil over a high heat. The oil must be very hot. You can test it by throwing a dash of flour into the oil. If the flour pops, the oil is ready for frying. Dunk the flowers in the batter and place them gently in the hot oil. Don’t put too many flowers in at once or it will bring down the temperature of the oil, and they mustn’t touch sides or they will stick together. Do not flip the flowers over until you can see the lower edges have turned golden brown, about 2 minutes. If you are using an iron skillet and the flowers stick, let them cook 30 seconds more. (Another trick is to allow the skillet to heat up before adding and heating the oil.) Turn the flowers over with tongs and fry for an addition minute, then remove and drain on paper towels. Do not add more battered flowers until you are sure the oil has come up in temperature again. Sprinkle with salt and set aside.
Place the fried flowers on the bottom of an ovenproof non-stick pan in a pinwheel pattern. Pour half of the egg mixture on top. Add the ricotta salata, then another layer of fried zucchini flowers. Add the remaining egg mixture, cover and bake for 30 minutes until a knife plunged into the center comes out clean. Allow to rest for 15 minutes, and then flip the frittata over onto a serving platter.
Zucchini Fritters, Serves 4
If you forget to salt the grated zucchini before allowing it to drain then the fritters may come out too wet. I’ve also made this as zucchini hash browns (not always intentionally). I also like them with smoked salmon and a little creme fraiche.  Although fat free sour cream is fine to when you’re counting the points.

• 4 cups grated zucchini, grated on the large holes on the grater (2 medium zucchini)
• 6 tablespoons corn oil
• 2 cups grated onion, grated on the large holes on the grater (2 medium onions)
• 1 egg, lightly beaten
• 2 tablespoons flour
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
• Sour cream for garnish

Put the zucchini in a colander, add about a teaspoon of salt, and let it drain for at least an hour. Press out any additional water from the zucchini by wrapping it in a cheesecloth and squeezing.
Heat 2 tablespoons of corn oil in a medium non-stick skillet. Add the onion and sauté them until they are translucent, about 5 minutes.
In a large bowl combine the zucchini, onion, egg, and flour.Heat the remaining corn oil in the same non-stick skillet over a medium heat. Gently form the zucchini mixture into 8 patties about 1/2” thick. Working in batches, fry the patties in the hot oil until they are browned and crisp, about 2 – 3 minutes per side. Don’t flip them over too early: wait until you can see the edges turning brown. Drain the fritters on paper towels and season them while they are still hot. Garnish with sour cream.
Oil Preserved Zucchini,Makes 1 1/2 lbs
These are delicious and versatile: You can blanket a piece of fish with chopped preserved zucchini and broil, or even make quick, tasty bruschetta. They’re great in pasta with shrimp, chopped and spread over mozzarella to make a pizza… But choosing the zucchini is important. You want them fresh, firm, and market size (about 8 inches long). Avoid those baseball bat-sized zucchinis, which are seedy and get mushy when you broil them.

• 8 zucchini), cut into planks about 1/4 inch thick
• 3 tablespoon minced fresh flat-leafed parsley (optional)
• 4 garlic cloves, minced
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
• Olive oil to cover

Place the oven rack about 2/3 the way up, about 6 inches from the broiler. (If the zucchini is broiled too close to the flame it will burn. As it is, it will blister!) Heat the broiler in your oven.
Lightly oil a cookie tray. Place the zucchini planks on the tray. Broil for 5 to 7 minutes, until browned, then turn the zucchini over and broil for 2 to 3 minutes more, until browned. (You can also grill the zucchini.)
Remove the zucchini as it is done and let it rest on paper towels while you finish broiling. (Some pieces will take longer than others, due to your stove, or the thickness of the planks.) The zucchini will release some juice. This is good—you want them to dry out a little.
When all the zucchini is done, lay one layer down in a small square Tupperware dish or glass pan. Sprinkle parsley, garlic, and salt and black pepper to taste between the layers. Once all the zucchini is in, cover with oil, put on the top or cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate. Avoid letting the zucchini sit at room temperature covered in oil or the vegetable will absorb too much oil. The oil should harden quickly in the fridge.
To use, just peel off the strips of zucchini from the cold oil, as you need them and re-cover the remaining zucchini with oil. I chop the zucchini with the cold oil clinging to it. For other recipes, remove the amount of zucchini you need and allow it to come to room temperature, and re-cover the remaining zucchini with oil. If you find the zucchini is very oily, dab it with paper towels before using.

I like to use the small ziploc containers and roll the zucchini, that way I can make a number of containers and not have them take up too much room in the fridge.  The zucchini will keep up to 1 month.

Zucchini Stuffed with Ricotta (Zucchine Ripiene con Ricotta)

I have been making this recipe for a few years now, ever since I spied it in Saveur magazine and had another year of the zucchini.  I changed the tomatoes called for in the recipe to cherry since they usually ripe at the same time and omitted the mint entirely.  But if you like mint the original recipe called for 2 tsp dried mint, crumbled to be added with the other herbs.  Also, I use panko crumbs in a pinch, I am usually behind on my bread grinding as my freezer can attest.  I sometimes serve this with Golden Tomato Oil, a recipe I adapted from one Mario Battali had posted on the Foodnetwork.

Photo: Andre Baranowski

• 6 medium zucchini (about 2 lbs.), halved lengthwise
• 7 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
• 3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
• 1 yellow onion, finely chopped
• 12 dozen cherry tomatoes, cored and seeded
• 2 cups homemade or store-bought ricotta
• 3⁄4 cup grated pecorino
• 3⁄4 cup fresh bread crumbs
• 3 tbsp. finely chopped flat-leaf parsley leaves
• 2 tsp. chopped fresh oregano
• 2 egg yolks, beaten
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper,  to taste

Using a small spoon, scoop out and discard pulp from each zucchini half, leaving a 1⁄4" rim around the edges. Heat 3 tbsp. of the olive oil in a 10" skillet over medium heat. Add garlic and onions; cook, stirring occasionally, until translucent, about 6 minutes. Add tomatoes and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft, about 4 minutes more. Remove from the heat and set aside.
In a medium bowl, stir together the ricotta, 1⁄4 cup of the pecorino, 1⁄4 cup of the bread crumbs, the parsley, mint, oregano, and egg yolks. Fold in the onion mixture and season with salt and pepper. Set the filling aside.
Arrange an oven rack about 7" from the broiler element and heat. Rub the insides of the zucchini with 2 tbsp. of the olive oil and season lightly with salt. Place zucchini cut side up on a foil-lined baking sheet and broil for 5 minutes. Remove baking sheet from oven and fill each zucchini half with enough of the ricotta mixture that it mounds slightly but doesn't spill over the edges of the zucchini. Sprinkle each stuffed zucchini with the remaining pecorino and bread crumbs and drizzle with the remaining olive oil. Broil until the zucchini are soft and the tops are lightly browned, 10–15 minutes.
SERVES 6
This article was first published in Saveur in Issue #113

Golden Tomato Oil

• 1 lb golden or yellow tomatoes, or yellow cherry tomatoes
• 1/2 C evoo
• 12 basil leaves
• 1 t salt

Roughly chop tomatoes and put in a blender with olive oil, basil leaves and salt.  Blend until smooth.  Pour through a strainer into a bowl and set aside.  Place in a bottle and store in the refrigerator until ready to use.  Let come to room temperature before using.

Pasta with Zucchini, Zucchini Blossoms and Carmelized Onion

I adapted this recipe from a Bon Appetit article published in August 2008. Makes 4 servings

• 15 zucchini blossoms, stems removed
• 2 tablespoons (1/4 stick) unsalted butter
• 1 large onion, thinly sliced
• 8 ounces penne
• 3 1/2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
• 3 cups 1/4-inch cubes zucchini (about 3 medium)
• 1 plum tomatoes, seeded, coarsely chopped
• 1/8 cup parmesan reggiano
• 1 tablespoon chopped italian parsley

Melt butter in large skillet over medium heat. Add onion, sprinkle with salt cover for 3 minutes and then sauté uncovered until deep golden, about 15 minutes; set aside.
Cook penne in large pot of boiling salted water until just tender but firm to bite, stirring occasionally. Drain pasta, reserving 1/2 cup cooking liquid. Return pasta to pot.
Meanwhile, heat 1 1/2 tablespoons oil in large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add zucchini blossoms and sauté until wilted, turning, about 1 minute. Transfer to paper towels and gently blot. Heat remaining 2 tablespoons oil in same skillet over medium-high heat. Add zucchini cubes; sprinkle with salt and sauté until crisp-tender, about 3 minutes. Add tomatoes, caramelized onion, and crushed red pepper to zucchini mixture; sauté 2 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.
Add vegetable mixture and 1/4 cup reserved pasta cooking liquid to pasta and toss to coat, adding more liquid if dry. Stir in cheese. Transfer pasta to large serving bowl; top with blossoms and sprinkle with parsley.