Thursday, September 16, 2010

My Mum says Tomahtoes I say Tomaytoes

However you pronounce the name of this wonderful fruit, it is time to man the jars.  Canned tomatoes are useful all winter long, for your bolongese, marinara, soups and stews.  Your garden or the farmers market has gifted you with tons of tomatoes, what to do with them?  My first suggestion is don't make sauce with all your tomatoes, I raw pack 1 case of  jars, can 1 case of tomatoes in quart size jars, make sauce for a case of pint size jars (or you can freeze) and put up Oven Dried Tomatoes in Oil in another a half case of jars.  But could I really get all of this done, while celebrating the twins fourth birthday (two parties), the house, a boy in first grade who still makes me walk him to his line and the usual chaos of three boys who can climb, jump and fly off everything.
The first test is would we have enough tomatoes here in Utah with a smaller than usual garden.  I planted 3 roma tomato plants (for canning), 2 sweet 100 cheery tomatoes, 2 heirloom bush style cherry tomato plants, 3 slicing tomatoes and 1 yellow pear tomato.  The cherry tomatoes we just eat as they ripen like a fruit.  The slicing tomatoes I plant every year and wonder why, my kids only like to suck the juice out of the tomatoes so the cherries work better for them, and I don't really like tomatoes on my sandwich and really the cherries make a better tomato salad than the slicers.  Next year only 1 slicing tomato plant, the Zebra heirloom was yummy and pretty. The yellow tomatoes are great in a Golden Tomato Oil as a dressing for the Stuffed Zucchini recipe in the Zucchini Blog.  So that leaves the Roma's for canning and I only planted 3 plants.  Nevertheless, even with only 3 roma tomatoes we will haul in about 50 lbs of canning tomatoes, not enough to last until the next seasons tomatoes were ripe but it would have to do.  So here is what I have done so far, I may head down to the farmers market and get more tomatoes or maybe I'll just go camping and call it all good. 



Raw Pack Tomatoes
Makes 4 pints, Courtesy Eugenia Bone
Tomatoes are safe to water bath can because they have a high enough acidity, however, because of the unknown acidity level you can ensure safe canning by adding citric acid.  I have found citric acid in the canning section of the Hood River Wal-Mart.  It is a plastic spice bottle.   You can store these tomatoes in a cool, dark place for up to a year. 
  • 4-6 lbs ripe, unblemished tomatoes
  • 2 fresh basil leaves per jar (optional)
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt per jar (optional)
  • 1/4 teaspoon citric acid per jar
Have read four very clean pint jars with new lids that have been simmered in hot water to soften the rubberized flange. Halve the tomatoes and shove them into very clean pint jars (I prefer wide mouth jars for raw packing—they’re easier to get into). I usually get one and a half large tomatoes in a pint jar. Press down to release the juices. If the tomatoes aren’t juicy, add enough boiling water to fill the jar, leaving ¾ inch headroom. With a butter knife, free any air bubbles caught in the jar.  Slip two basil leaves into each jar.
Place 1/2 teaspoon of salt and 1/4 teaspoon citric acid in each jar. Wipe the rims, place on the lids and screw on the bands fingertip tight.
Cover the jars with about 3 inches of water in your water bath canner. The tomatoes process a long time, and it is a problem as water can splash out during the boil. If the tops of the jars are at any point uncovered with water, you have to delete the time that the cans were not totally submerged. You must then add water, bring to a boil, and begin timing again, starting at the point when the jars were still submerged. Process the tomatoes for 40 minutes at seal level, adding 2 minutes for every 1,000 feet altitude. As soon as the 40 minutes are up, turn off the heat. Wait 5 minutes or so, then remove the jars and let them rest. After about 8 hours remove the bands and check the lids. If the seals are tight, label the jars and store them in a cool dark place. You do not need to store the jars with the screw top on. The lid is enough.


Canned Tomatoes
I wish I could offer a better recipe format for this but it is so simple you don't really need one.  This is a hand me down recipe from our Italian neighbour, when I was growing up in Richmond Hill whom I called Mrs. Doodelly, her real name is Mrs. Duni but she liked to doodle a little bit too much in my business - hence the moniker.  The process is basic.  Having washed all your plum tomatoes, make a small X at the base and then put them in a large pot, cover.  Turn the heat onto high and heat until the skins have burst open.  Remove the tomatoes to a colander and let cool.  When the tomatoes have cooled, peel them and put them into quart size jars, slip in a sprig of basil.  Leave about 1/2 inch of head room seal and process the jars for about 40 minutes.
Roasted Tomato Sauce
Makes about 2 1/2 cups
I made this sauce for the first time two years ago and it is now an important component to my tomato repetoire.  Roasting the tomatoes concentrates their flavors and makes a really rich sauce.  There is no need to can this sauce if you don't want to, it freezes wonderfully.  This recipe easily expands, for example for 15 lbs of tomatoes I use a whole head of garlic and 2 tablespoons of sugar.


  • 3lb ripe plum tomatoes, halved
  • 5 cloves garlic
  • 3 sprigs fresh thyme
  • salt and pepper to taste
  • 2 t sugar
  • olive oil for drizzling


Preheat oven to 425.  Lay the tomatoes cut side up in a single layer on a lightly oil sheet pan.  Scatter the garlic and thyme over the tomatoes.  Sprinkle the salt, pepper and sugar, drizzle with a little oil.  Roast the tomatoes for 20-25 minutes until the edges of the tomatoes have browned. Lower the oven temperature to 350 and continue to roast the tomatoes for 45 minutes, the tomatoes should have shrunk by one half.
Discard the thyme and pass the tomatoes and garlic through the food mill with the smallest disc.
Let the sauce cool and then transfer to freezer safe containers.  Chill the sauce in the fridge and then put up in the freezer.


Oven Dried Tomatoes in Oil
I can't say enough great things about these tomatoes.  They are great to have in the winter for a quick bruschetta, or served with a nice soft burrata.  The tomato flavour is so concentrated and you don't end up with those papery sun-dried tomatoes that you have to rehydrate.  Plus the residual oil is great to use as the base for a salad dressing.  Chop these up mix with a little ricotta and an egg and stuff chicken breast for roasting, delicious.   you can get a 5 L bottle of olive oil for about $18 at Costco.


  • 6 lb ripe tomatoes
  • sea salt
  • mixed batch of herb sprigs, rosemary, thyme, basil and oregano
  • 1 bay leaf per jar
  • 2 1/2 cups olive oil


Preheat the oven to its lowest setting, line the bottom of the oven with tin foil to protect it from any juices that drip down.
Halve the tomatoes lengthwise and using a teaspoon scoop out the seeds.  Place the tomatoes cut-side down on a few sheets of paper towels, this will capture any additional juices that drain out.
Put the tomatoes cut side up on the wire rack in your oven and sprinkle lightly with sea salt.  Put the racks in the oven and prop the door slightly ajar - this way the tomatoes will dry out rather than just cook.
Leave the tomatoes for 6-12 hours until they tomatoes feel dry but springy to the touch, they should not become papery.  Remove the racks from the oven and allow the tomatoes to cool.
Loosely pack the tomatoes into sterilized dry jars adding the herbs as you go.  Pour the oil into cover the tomatoes by 1/2 inch.  Use a butter knife down the sides of the jar to expel any air bubbles and seal.  Store in a cool, dark place for 1 month before eating.


Spaghettini with Hot Pepper, Roasted Tomatoes and Bottarga
Adapted from Mario Battali
Bottarga (Italian), poutargue or boutargue (French), botarga (Spanish), batarekh (Arabic) or avgotaraho (Greek) is a Mediterranean delicacy of cured fish roe.  Often called the poor man's caviar, bottarga is the roe pouch of tuna or red mullet, or sometimes swordfish. It is massaged by hand to eliminate air pockets, then dried and cured in sea salt for a few weeks. The result is a dry hard slab, which is coated in beeswax for keeping.It is usually used sliced thinly or grated.  I have been able to find it at Tony Caputos in Salt Lake City and is available online from www.igourmet.com .  It is still pricey and this pasta is great without it, the kick from a habanero makes the dish too incendiary for the boys so I use a jalapeno.



  • sea salt
  • 2 tablespoons olive oil
  • 1 jalapeno, seeded and thinly sliced
  • 3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
  • 1 C Oven Roasted Tomatoes in Oil
  • 1/4 C Oven Roasted Tomato Sauce
  • 1 lb spaghettini
  • 1/4 C flat leaf parsely leaves, minced
  • Bottarga for grating
  • 1/4 C toasted bread crumbs
Bring 6 quarts of water to a boil and add 2 tablespoons of salt.
In a large saute pan combine the olive oil, chile and garlic and saute until the garlic is soft, about 3 minutes.  Add the tomatoes and tomato sauce and bring to a simmer.
Cook the pasta until al dente.  Drain and add to the tomato mixture with the parsley, toss over high heat for 1 minute.  Divide among four bowls and scatter the shaved bottarga over each bowl, sprinkle with bread crumbs and serve immediately.


Roasted Tomato and Almond Pesto










  • 2 3/4 pounds plum tomatoes, cored, halved, seeded


  • 7 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided


  • 2 1/2 tablespoons chopped fresh oregano, divided


  • 2 unpeeled large garlic cloves





  • 5 tablespoons whole raw almonds, divided







  • 1/2 teaspoon dried crushed red pepper




  • Preheat oven to 375 F.  Line a large rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. Place tomato halves, 2 T of olive oil and 1 1/2 t oregano in a bowl.  Sprinkle with salt and toss.  Arrange tomato halves, cut side down on a baking sheet and drizzle with any remaining juices from the bowl.  Add the garlic cloves to the baking sheet.  Bake until the garlic is tender, about 30 minutes.  Remove the garlic and set aside.  Continue to roast tomatoes until they begin to brown in spots but are still soft, about another 30 minutes.  Cool tomatoes on a baking sheet.
    Meanwhile, spread almonds on a samll baking sheet and toast alongside the tomatoes until golden brown, about 10 minutes.
    Peel garlic.  Place in processor along with the roasted tomatoes, toasted almonds and crushed red pepper.  Pulse to a course puree.  While the machine is running gradually add 5 T of oil, season with salt.  Transfer pesto to small freezable containers.